On paper, the anatomy of udon is deceptively simple: flour, water, and salt. Of course, if it were truly that effortless, we’d all be kneading dough in our kitchens. The real magic lies in the precision—the exact ratio of two distinct flours, balanced with just enough fine sea salt to tauten the gluten network. It is this chemical alchemy that yields that irresistible mochi-mochi chew, the hallmark of a truly exceptional noodle. That, and hours of relentless, rhythmic foot-stomping.
Good udon is surprisingly hard to come by in London, so you can imagine how difficult it is to find great udon. In terms of homemade udon that has a good mochi-mochi texture, Marugame’s is good, particularly for the price. The udon at Sushi Show is excellent too, but for me, Koya makes great udon, and there are three Koya restaurants to choose from in London—with Koya City being my favourite. The location means it is the least busy of the three at weekends, and the space feels roomier even though they all have roughly the same capacity.
That isn’t to say I don’t have a soft spot for the Frith Street original, Koya Soho. If you happen to find yourself in central London before midday, their Full Japanese Breakfast Set is an absolute must. A nourishing spread of grilled mackerel, delicate onsen tamago, dancing bonito flakes, kaiso sunomono, pickles, and hojicha—it is a restorative experience I’ve yet to find replicated anywhere else in the city. (Their English Breakfast Udon is also firmly on my radar.)
Further east, Koya Ko in Hackney marches to a completely different beat. Tucked just off Broadway Market, it sheds the bustling restaurant feel for a breezy, casual East London energy with plenty of outdoor seating. The menu may be more concise, but it punches well above its weight. If you’re chasing the perfect equilibrium of umami and acidity, their Triple Pickle is non-negotiable—a dish I spent an entire summer fully addicted to.
Onto the food.
When it comes to the main event, I invariably gravitate toward comfort, and there is nothing quite as grounding as the Kinoko. It is a masterclass in umami—a harmonious collision of salty, sweet, and distinctly nutty profiles. Earthy shiitake, shimeji, enoki, and eryngii mushrooms mingle with charred Hispi cabbage and a rich walnut miso, all swimming in a pristine mushroom dashi.
You face a crucial choice here: hot broth and hot noodles (Atsu-Atsu), or hot broth with cold noodles (Hiya-Atsu). I will always advocate for Hiya-Atsu. Serving the udon cold halts the cooking process, preserving the noodle at its absolute peak of mochi-mochi chewiness, whereas the residual heat of the Atsu-Atsu yields a softer, silkier bite.
We often pitch Koya as a “light” lunch option, but inevitably, the table always ends up with one or two shared sides:
- Prawn Tempura: Unquestionably among the best in London—shatteringly crisp, impossibly light, and generous in size.
- Kaiso Sunomono: Bright and restorative. The ginger delivers a sharp, creeping heat that acts as the perfect palate cleanser.
- Atsu-Age: A masterclass in textural contrast. Sourced from London’s own Clean Bean, this organic tofu is deep-fried to form a protective skin, then finished on the grill. Dressed in leek oil and soy sauce, the crispy exterior gives way to a centre that is soft and silky.
Would I go again?
The question isn’t whether I’d return, but rather how soon. I’ve been back countless times, though I am admittedly guilty of clinging to my favourites. Next time, I owe it to myself to finally explore the rest of the menu.
The Essentials
If you’re planning your own pilgrimage for the ultimate noodle pull, here is a quick breakdown of Koya’s London outposts:
- Koya City: Located in the Bloomberg Arcade. The most spacious of the three, highly recommended for a quiet weekend lunch when the City winds down.Closest tube station: Bank, Cannon Street, Mansion House.
- Koya Soho: The bustling original on Frith Street. Go early—especially if you want to secure that legendary Full Japanese Breakfast Set before midday. Closest tube station: Leicester Square, Tottenham Court Road, Piccadilly Circus.
- Koya Ko (Hackney): Tucked just off Broadway Market. Relaxed and casual, with plenty of outdoor seating perfect for a sunny East London afternoon. Closest tube station: London Fields, Bethnal Green.
Reservations are only available at Koya City..
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